Lectoure - it’s no antique!

Lectoure is the chic centrepiece of northern Gers and no visit to the region would be complete without a few hours at this picturesque, culturally rich spa town. Perched proudly on a hilltop with spectacular countryside views towards the Pyrenees, this atmospheric town is a unique blend of beautiful architecture, boutiques, galleries and eateries.

It’s also a centre for antiques and in Channel 4’s ‘Dick & Angel’s Secret France’, episode two starts with the pair of creative francophiles sifting through ‘really old things’ at its magnificent brocante set in the former Chateau of the Counts of Armignac.

Where is it?

This beguiling Gersoise town is located about 32 kilometers (20 miles) north of Auch, the capital of the Gers department. The quintessential Gascon towns of Condom and Fleurance are close by and the well resourced, bustling town of Agen is also easily reachable, about 40 minutes drive. Toulouse (aka La Ville Rose owing to its attractive red brick buildings) is the largest city within reaching distance (about and hour and a half) offering efficient transport links to Paris and the rest of the world.  

Things to do

Antiques and more

Lectoure is also the antiques capital of the Gers and it’s easy to see why. Book-ending the west entrance of the village at the lower end, is the striking château of the Counts of Armagnac which has been converted into a sprawling brocante market. It’s a permanent fixture with halls and ornately decorated chapels bursting at the seams with all manner of bric-a-brac and antiquities from 100s of years ago to more retro items from the 1970s.

For a closer look at the antiques village click here.

The mall attracts collectors and enthusiasts who after a leisurely browse, can head up the Rue National, the main street, and discover more antiques, vintage items, and curiosities. These shops plus art galleries are nestled amongst other retail delights set at the base of grand 17th century townhouses, from chocolate and cheese shops to ceramicists, concept stores and fashion boutiques.

Venture a little further up to the eastern end of Lectoure and an esplanade, a grand square complete with ornate band stand, is an invitation to pause, sit and enjoy scenic views across a large swathe of the Gers Valley. It’s also a versatile open space for markets, vide greniers, concerts and impromptu pétanque.

Bleu de Lectoure

The town is famous for its traditional, indigo-based blue dye, known as "Bleu de Lectoure” which has been produced here since the 15th century and is used today in textiles and art. Bus loads of visitors often stop for a demonstration on the dyeing process and buy locally made products such as cool linen shirts and scarves.

Thermal Spa and overnight stays

Lectoure is blessed with natural thermal springs believed to have healing properties. It’s another reason why the town attracts visitors from all over the world. Set in a beautiful honeycoloured stone building, typical of the region, the spa offers a range of treatments and is a popular destination for relaxation and wellness.

For patrons of the elegant neighbouring hotel, College des Doctrinaries, an underground passageway makes it possible to don fluffy robes and slippers and take the spa waters at their leisure.

Many independent hotels, chambre d’hotes and short-term rental options can be found throughout the town so there’s no shortage of good quality places to stay.

Markets, fetes and festivals 

Friday is market day

Most Gers towns have a set market day and at Lectoure Friday morning is when the town comes alive with an eclectic mix of stalls.

People of all nationalities flock to the Rue National, many carry wicker baskets aching to be filled with the likes of fresh locally grown veg, cheeses, olives, wine and freshly baked sour dough bread.

It’s vibrant and typically French and takes place all year round although a little smaller in the winter months.

Night markets

In the heat and height of the summer, the Rue National takes on a different form. Yes there are stalls selling wares but mostly it’s a veritable feast of pop-up food and drink traders from all corners of the world. Live music and an opportunity to join in to outdoor ceroc (French rock and roll) makes for a lively, sociable atmosphere late into the evening until revellers wend their way wearily home.

Summer music festivals

Lectoure is one of the venues for the "Nuits Musicales en Armagnac," a classical summer music festival spanning various locations across the Gers which attracts renowned musicians playing at various historic sites, including the cathedral.

Throughout August, the music genre switches to a cooler more modern vibe as once a week in the evening, the Blues Festival sees live bands strum, hum, swing and sing long into the night.

The melon Festival

Lectoure is renowned for producing some of the best melons in France, thanks to the region's favourable climate and soil. It is why every August, the Melon Festival (Fête du Melon) is a key event for the community reflecting the town's agricultural heritage and its pride in local produce and the end of the melon season.

The Charentais melon, a variety of cantaloupe that is particularly sweet and fragrant, is held in great esteem and mother nature’s colours form the colour palette for a fun family-orientated event. The central feature is a giant melon paraded proudly through the streets flanked by festival goers dressed in green and orange in homage to the much-loved fruit. It’s a colourful spectacle to behold and epitomises life in Lectoure.

A little bit of history 

Roman Origins

Lectoure’s rich history reaches as far as Roman times when known as "Lactora," its strategic position on a rocky hilltop overlooking the Gers River made it an important site for trade and defense.

Medieval Significance

During the Middle Ages, it became a significant stronghold and was the capital of the County of Armagnac. Its heritage is also closely linked to the powerful Armagnac family, who held political prominence in the region during the Hundred Years' War. The Counts of Armagnac made Lectoure their capital, and the town flourished as a center of power and culture.

Religious and Cultural Center

Lectoure has long been a religious centre, and its cathedral dedicated to Saint Gervais and Saint Protasius, was built in the 12th century in gothic style. It has undergone several modifications over the centuries and remains a central and striking landmark with its imposing bell tower dominating the skyline.  Step inside this cool, quiet, calming space and visitors can marvel at an impressive organ, beautiful stained-glass windows, and intricate woodwork.

The Old Ramparts

The town is encircled by ancient ramparts that offer stunning views of the surrounding countryside and provide a sense of the town's historical importance as a fortified settlement. Another building of note is the the 17th-century Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) which houses Lectoure’s administrative offices and often hosts exhibitions and events. Alongside is an equally attractive Tourist Office